Lola the Showgirl Vase

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Details

Last Updated: Monday, 04 March 2019 15:31

Designer: William Pulse

 

Instructions

1. Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Check the inside for any debris as well.
2. In a plastic cup mix some water into FN-009 Black to a melted ice cream consistency. While working quickly, roll the inside of the vase with the thinned color. When the color has completely covered all of the inside surface, pour out the excess color and invert to dry. Wipe off any drips or color on the outside of the piece with a moistened sponge.
3. Trace the outline of the jawline and neck of the face onto the ware separating the face from the dress material area. The top of the head is cut off at the crease in the neck of the vase forming the crown.
4. Onto a tile mix 1:1 equal parts of SC-20 Cashew Later with SC-54 Vanilla Dip. Mix enough to cover the flesh area with 3 coats of color. Using CB-604 Soft Fan and CB-406 Pointed Round to apply 3 even smooth coats of the flesh mixture to the ware. This includes over all the features. Let dry.
5. Use a pencil with AC-230 Clay Carbon to transfer the pattern to the ware.
6. The shadows of the face are painted first. Place some of all (except SC-20 Cashew Later) of the Stroke and Coats onto a tile with the colors marked or noted on the tile. The CB-406 Pointed Round brush is loaded with water and tipped with color to perform all of the shading generally in a side motion with the color next to the line.
7. Start with SC-41 Brown Cow and shade the left side of the face next to the nose and brow. The color is slightly heavier where the eyebrow begins and continues to the tip of the nose. Shade each side of the nostrils and under the nose. Shade the philtrum/ medial cleft under the nose and between the lip. Shade the area below the cheeks at an angle from the “ear” part of the vase. Darken the crease of the upper eyelid.
8. Shade under the over the eye socket with SC-92 Café Ole. Add color to the crease of the eyelid and under each brow. Shade each side of the nose (r. and l. alar) and tip. Paint in the scroll line around the handle for shading.
9. With the brush loaded with SC-95 Pinkie Swear, shade the bridge of the nose from the brow to the tip. Shade the round sides and tip of the nose. Paint in the roughing on the cheeks above the brown shading. This shading on the cheeks should start from nothing around the edges to where the concentration of color is in the center of the cheekbone. Place some color on the outer edges under the eyebrow and chin.
10. Use SC-28 Blue Isle for the eye shadow.
11. Shade the right side of the nose with some SC-54 Vanilla Dip as a high light.
12. The lips are shaded with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and outlined with SC-73 Candy Apple Red. The outlining is done with CB-110 Detail Liner. Note that the flesh tone comes through the shading of the lips.
13. The iris of the eye is filled in with a wash of SC-11 Blue Yonder. Shade the edges of the iris with SC-28 Blue Isle and some SC-52 Toad-ily Green. Come back with CB-110 Detail Liner and paint in some lines that radiate out from the pupil with SC-28 and SC-52. This will make the matrix of the eye. The pupil is filled in with SC-15 Tuxedo. This circle shape will be cut off slightly towards the eye line not forming a perfect circle. Highlight the pupil with SC-16 Cotton Tail. Fill in the “white” of the eye with a thinned wash of SC-16. Place a small dot of SC-95 Pinky Swear in the corner of the eye as well.
14. The eyeliner around the eye is done with SC-34 Down to Earth and then reinforced with SC-15 Tuxedo. Exaggerate the lash above the eye somewhat with very fine and long sweeping curls using CB-110 Detail Liner. The eye line on the lower part of the line should be kept small and fine. Due to the larger size of this eye, you can incorporate some fine lower lashes as well. Keep them shorter in length and very fine. Refer to the detail example on the pattern.
15. To complete the eye brow, start out with short hair like strokes of SC-43 Down To Earth using CB-110 Detail Liner. Do not completely fill in this area as a solid mass. You should still be able to see skin tone peeking through the individual hair strokes. Reinforce the eyebrow hairs with some SC-15 Tuxedo.
16. For the hair around the top portion of the piece, it is done in the same manner as the eyebrow as far as colors used. The strokes of the hair are longer and bolder in shape and direction but are done with both colors allowing the flesh tone to act as a highlight.
17. The birth mark is done in SC-34 Down To Earth and outlined half of the mark with SC-15 Tuxedo.
18. The top crown and bottom dress material section of the vase are done in a similar manner. Stir and mix S-2701 Peacock Eyes and apply two coats of glaze to the crown and dress section of the pattern using CB-604 Soft Fan. Let dry. Apply 1 good coat of SC-77 Glo Worm to the bottom dress material area and randomly dab some SC-13 Grapel over it. The crown is 1 good coat of SC-13 Grapel randomly dabbed with SC-77 Glo-Worm.
19. Apply 2-3 coats of S-2711 Tahiti Grape to the front and backs of the medallions using CB-604 Soft Fan. Make sure you get enough larger crystals on each side and evenly spaced.
20. Apply 1 coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing over the face and hair of the piece using CB-604 Soft Fan. Do not apply any over the crown or dress material areas.
21. Use a “bead rack” stilt to hang the medallions on for firing. Stilt the vase and fire all pieces to Shelf Cone 05-06.
22. To assemble the earrings to the vase, use some large chain spacer rings threaded with the medallions to where they clip onto the handles.