- Last Updated: Thursday, 02 November 2017 13:01
- MB-1145 Flat Tulip Vase
- SS-87 Emperor’s Gold
- SS-19 Country Sage
- SS-57 Accent Green
- SS-135 White
- SS-276 Forrest Green
- SS-376 Limeburst
- FN-010 Tree Green
- FN-051 Strawberry
- AC-523 Non-fired Snow
- AC-525 Brush Cleaner
- CB-110 #10/0 Liner
- CB-106 #6 Script Liner
- CB-404 Pointed Round
- CB-604 #4 Soft Fan
- BT-910 Synthetic Sponge
- Blue Masking Tape
- Sharpie Fine Tip Green Marker
- Tissue Paper
- 14M Dark Amber Rhinestones
- Plastic Mixing Cup
- Aluminum Foil
- Pattern: Download
Designer: William Pulse
- Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Check the inside for any debris as well.
- In a Plastic Mixing Cup thin some FN-010 Tree Green with water. While working quickly, pour the thinned glaze into the vase. Rotate the vase to completely cover the inside of the vase. Pour off the excess glaze and invert to dry. Wipe off any glaze from the outside edge using a moistened sponge.
- Using CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 3-4 coats of FN-051 Strawberry to the outside of the vase. The color should meet the green color inside of the vase.
- Stilt and Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 05-06.
- Copy the pattern onto the tissue paper with a pencil for transferring. Use the tissue copy of the pattern for transferring the outline of the pattern onto the ware using a Fine Tip Sharpie Marker. Don’t concern yourself with too much detail at this point.
- Applying the non-fired snow is not done in a brushing manner for this project excluding the leaves. The brush is loaded FULLY to where it almost is dripping off the bristles. The snow needs to trail off of the brush onto the ware when painting the petals of the flowers. If you over brush or work the surface of the snow you will bring up an unwanted texture or nap to the snow. It can be corrected by applying more snow after the previous coat has dried. The product is viscous and will smooth (round off) itself out as it dries slightly to your advantage. Mix the snow frequently and keep the brush clear during the painting process. You can alter the snow with a touch of water in the brush when trying to manipulate the shape being painted, but don’t rely on the water as you will bring up a texture if care isn’t taken.
- Start by laying down a coat to the back petals to the poinsettia using CB-110 Liner or CB-106 Script Liner. Fill in the entire petals that lie beneath the top petals as they will start the building the dimensions to the flower. Workaround the vase completing all of the back petals. Let them dry until firm. Wash your brush well with warm water and AC-525 Brush Cleaner. Once dried, non-fired snow is permanent. Fill in the lower leaves of the pattern in a more traditional brushing application which will give you more of a texture to the leaves. Let dry.
- If you need to transfer or redraw in the shape of the next level of petals to the poinsettia do so now, however………..It is easier to mindfully apply the next layer of petals to the poinsettias as before by free-handing the application. Just remember that the next layer of petals are generally shorter than the first allowing the first layer to show through. It can be time-consuming and frustrating to re-apply the pattern and do little for your effort. The next layer of petals does not extend all the way out to the previous petals. Sometimes there may be only two levels of petals to a portion of a flower, sometimes three layers. Remember that the top petals are shorter than the underlying ones. Let dry.
- Check over the application of the snow to see if you need more definition or height to some petals for contrast. Re-apply more snow to achieve the desired shape and dimensions to the petals. Let dry.
- By now you should be able to see defined shapes to petals hopefully. Once again if you don’t need to sketch in the shapes of the petals all the better. Use Aluminum Foil for your pallet to aid in clean up. Do not dispose of the color down the sink drain. Using CB-404 Pointed Round to fill in the lower leaves with 2 coats of SS-276 Forrest Green. Let dry.
- Outline the poinsettia petals with a very fine line of SS-57 Accent Green using CB-110 Liner. Keep the line as fine as possible.
- Shading of the poinsettia petals starts with a thin (with water) application of SS-19 Country Sage to the center veins to some of the petals. Accent this vein with a thin (with water) shading of SS-376 Limeburst. Keep these colors light and faint so that just a hint of color exists.
- To shade between the poinsettia petals is accomplished with a CB-404 Pointed Round loaded with water and barely tipped with some SS-57 Accent Green. This color is very intense and can easily overpower the shading. Thin applications of the color are used for shading. Its easier to apply multiple layers of thin color than to try and correct too heavy of an application of the green. This is where the Q-Tips may come in handy to remove or blot any excess color application to the shading. Refer to the pattern for the shading and separations to the petals. If necessary, SS-135 White can be used to accent/highlight an edge or cut down a lined area. Try not to rely on using the white as your correcting fluid. Let dry.
- Apply 2 coats of SS-87 Emperor’s Gold to the outline and veins in the leaves using CB-110 Liner.
- Let dry. No need for a spray sealer coat as the snow is permanent and the shading with meld into the surface of the snow over time. Hand washing is recommended for cleaning the piece.
- Using glue or epoxy to affix the 14M Dark Amber Rhinestones to the centers of the flowers.